The Joy of the Irish

There was so much joy at The Open… from the remarkable beauty of Royal Portrush twisting through and over the dunes, to the fantastic and welcoming residents of the Irish island, to the sights and sounds of fans across the links as they helped lift Shane Lowry into history as Champion Golfer of the Year.

There were so many moments of joy tumbling through the week. There was a magical Irish pub that became a home away from home, a unique group of guys who love the game of golf sharing breakfast each morning and drinks at night, every hue of green from coast to mountain and back again, the company of remarkable strangers from across the globe, along with golf to score, watch and play. But through a week of immense joy, a handful of moments radiate across time and oceans as memories that will last forever.

Barreling along the Coastal Causeway, in a well-worn Peugeot driven by a curious Irish lad as we sang County Crows at the top of our lungs with the wind carrying our voices off across the emerald landscape, lingers as a moment of great joy.

“Believe in me
Help me believe in anything
‘Cause I want to be someone who believes…”

But even that was far from the only singing that danced through the entire week as live music at local pubs created a soundtrack to our drinking, our eating and our time abroad.

Without doubt however, the most powerful singing was belted out by thousands of serenading Irish fans Saturday as they gathered behind the 18th green while Lowry signed for a bogey-free score of 63. Their songs carried forth across his windy, rain soaked Sunday round of 72 as well – accepted by most of us as rivaling the 8-under score he posted in the lovely Saturday sun – growing to an endless roar of cheers as he played through the final holes and owned The Open with a six-stroke lead.

These happy, singing, joyous fans wanted something to believe in after waiting 68 years for The Open to return to their island. And as the drama unfolded, they had more than something to believe in, they had someone to believe in. While Northern Ireland’s own faltered – lingering well behind the leaders or failing to make the cut altogether – Lowry carried the torch for the entire island.

Yet the joy was hardly contained to the players – and not even just to those who live on the great, green island… the joy was felt by anyone with a pulse, by anyone who was trying to feel anything at all.

One who seemed to tap into that joy as much or more than any of us was my Thursday carry-board carrier Louie, a 16-year-old from England who plays off a 6 handicap. Louie had flown over with a buddy early, in time to spectate the Sunday practice round – and he wasn’t leaving until after the final putts fell the next Sunday.

While his dad was coming for the weekend, for less than $190 Louie secured himself a tent in the campground just a few minutes from the course that included a junior ticket to watch all the golf he could during the week. He and his buddy were in golf spectating heaven – and both were volunteering inside the ropes as well. And while I couldn’t quite get my head around camping at The Open, his excitement was a joy to behold.

Our Thursday game also didn’t disappoint – we’d be walking with Jon Rahm, Matt Kuchar and Patrick Cantlay. Rahm – a two-time winner of the Irish Open, including just down the road at Portstewart – rocketed up the leaderboard with a front nine 31, holding a share of the lead for most of the round we walked with him.

Thanks to Rahm’s start – and the challenge of the course itself – Louie was busy, changing scores on the board 23 times. He only had five change-less holes and got to swap out all three scores on both the second and seventh holes. Besides his absolute joy at being inside the ropes bearing witness to the oldest major in the game, he was a first rate board carrier – with numbers changing almost as fast as the putts were falling.

As life would have it, I ran into him minutes after Lowry’s final putt Sunday while taking in the big yellow scoreboard in a hazy rain. The next day I even met his dad at the airport on our flight out of Belfast. Louie didn’t really need the R&A’s encouragement to love the game, but the one-price ticket / camping option for juniors no doubt helped spread the joy of the week to the next generation and felt like a great “grow the game” initiative despite the rain and wind.

Of course Louie was far from the only joy I encountered inside the ropes.

My American friend Dave Belding was scoring his third major of the year – including the final round with U.S. Open champion Gary Woodland on Father’s Day in June – and volunteering at his fourth. We’d been referring to it as his Volunteer Slam for well over a year – something I’m unaware of anyone else doing as a volunteer in the same calendar year, though perhaps others have as well. During the week at Portrush we’d walk a few holes inside the ropes together training local scorers in the pouring rain who’d never scored a major before.

Dave scores more tournaments in one year than most people do in five and no one tells better golf tales over a bottle of wine than the attorney from South Carolina. He was kind enough to travel to New Jersey a few years ago to score when I was doing the scheduling for the Women’s U.S. Open and notably spent an entire evening entertaining my dad while doing laundry in our hotel while I was tied up on the course.

Between visiting the tailor to get our volunteer uniforms fitted and taking our first look at Royal Portrush, Dave gathered a group of American volunteers together – a couple from California, another from Illinois, and a mutual friend from Atlanta. We had our customary fish and chips together on a sunny Sunday afternoon outside on the course… and most of us later met up again for drinks and dinner in the town of Bushmill over fresh fish, good wine and Irish coffees.

We each told a decent golf story or two during dinner before Dave took control, sharing a series of hilarious anecdotes that left us laughing and excited for the week ahead. The joy that night was fueled by the stories, the shared experiences, the people who were suddenly friends, the week of golf ahead… and naturally the Bushmills whiskey made just up the winding main street of the town.

Of course there was outstanding joy from those who would never get the opportunity to duck under the ropes and experience The Open as we were so fortunate to do.

Early in the week, on a perfect day where the temperature hit 75 degrees and the clouds were wispy and sparse, I broke out my own sticks and wandered among the dunes of Portstewart’s Strand golf course – home to the 2017 Irish Open won by Jon Rahm.

First tee of the Strand Course at Portstewart

I made the customary jokes to an Englishman my age and his dad – as well as a nice guy from Boston who rounded out our foursome – about how sorry I was they were forced to enjoy this beautiful day with my golf swing… before playing probably the worst five holes of my life. Mind you, these were some of the most remarkable holes I’ve ever walked, truly unique and memorable among majestically high dunes – but my swing had totally abandoned me. To make matters worse, my kind and lovely caddie was a member of Portstewart, had looped that morning for a guy who shot even par, and carried a +2 handicap of his own.

But even then, there was joy around the bend.

Thankfully, before the first nine were through I’d scraped together a couple pars. I made a further attempt to pull myself together at the halfway hut with a gin and tonic. With no ice and no limes (or any citrus) to speak of, I ended up slowly sipping a cup of warm gin mixed with equally warm tonic for the duration of the tenth hole.

It remains unclear if it was that odd and not very satisfying elixir that did the trick or my caddies’ suggestion that I make a fuller shoulder turn, but I managed to find my driver once again and parred five of the final nine holes to marginally feel like a golfer limping up the 18th. I think it was a concerted effort to keep my head down while chipping and a much improved – and fuller – shoulder turn with the driver, but there’s a certain joy to thinking the warm gin took some strokes off my back nine score that day!

While the course itself was a joy to walk – the front nine was a marvel carved among dunes where no golf course should have been, yet remarkably was – the clubhouse bar is truly where I shine. So it was that the Englishman and his dad and I ended up telling stories and drinking a wee bit more gin after the round – with ice and orange slices this time.

Like most of the trip – which was full of the most amazing strangers insisting on making the trip the best it could be – my caddie and his wife swung by our table to tell me he’d arranged for a buddy of his to drive me back to where I was sleeping.

The ride was a joy unto itself… for a bit of gin was in my veins, the northern Irish skies were crystal clear, and the drive meandered along the old coastal route hugging the Atlantic Ocean.  The driver insisted on stopping a few times because the setting sun and the views were too remarkable not to pause and soak in – in fact, he kept apologizing for wasting my time; I kept stressing time spent like this was never wasted.

He was nice enough to drop my clubs at our place and deposit me at the Central Wine Bar in the heart of Ballycastle – as much a home for the week as the spacious room in the B&B itself – where I was reunited with my Australian golf scoring volunteer and friend Dave Wintrip of Dubai, Shinnecock, Carnoustie, Pebble Beach and more.

In a four-level Irish pub founded by their parents a mere five minute walk up the hill from where we slept, Aaron McHenry and his sister Cara, created for us a perfect living room filled with UK Navy veterans, hurling and rugby fans, local curmudgeons, live music, and golf on the televisions. From local sea trout, salmon, shrimp and scallops to great risottos and duck pancakes, the food out of the kitchen was always outstanding. And Aaron’s knowledge of Irish whiskey – both north and south, from Jameson to Redbreast 12 to Bushmills of all ages, including the smooth 21-year-old – and stints bartending in Tuscaloosa (of all places) ensured I was drinking outstanding cocktails every evening.

In all honesty, among the remarkable joys of the week, this pub was a unique and distinct pleasure just as great as Royal Portrush’s Dunlace Links, or Dustin Johnson’s swing I scored through 18 holes Sunday, or the lush green fields and magnificent ocean vistas that enthralled us all week. After all, I’ve been a regular at more than a few restaurants and bars in my life, but never so quickly, never more heartfelt, almost never feeling more welcome anywhere than I did in the front bar of this Irish pub.

For we were all tourists in Northern Ireland that week, gathering like golf fans do for every great championship looking for something to believe in, some experience that will be indelibly imprinted on our life’s journey. Everywhere we went we felt the great joy of those who lived there – and their need to share that joy to enhance our time spent among them. No one captured that feeling more day in and day out for me than our man Aaron in his family’s pub.

Aaron brought Louie’s excitement and passion, all Dave Belding’s experience and dedication and combined it with the joy and hospitality of  those we met from Portstewart to Portrush to Ballycastle and the little towns and villages in between.

It was a week of pure joy.

Such that on the way out of town, the same curious Irish lad and I blasted Mr. Jones one more time, singing near the top of our lungs across the back roads and down the motorways toward Belfast…

“Believe in me
Help me believe in anything
‘Cause I want to be someone who believes…”

Maybe none of us came to The Open at Royal Portrush rooting for Shane Lowry, but I left full of joy that he’d lifted the Claret Jug and won this championship for the people of this island.

And full of hope the R&A would invite us all back to this wonderful place very soon.

Golf Runs Through Our Blood

While the U.S. Open may have been born along another ocean, on the other side of the American continent, when it returns to Pebble Beach it truly feels like something of a homecoming. The trophy looks at home on the first tee and our national championship itself feels tied to this part of the California coast, to this stretch of the Pacific Ocean, to this incredible place.

“It is an interesting biological fact that all of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean, and therefore, we have salt in our blood, in our sweat, in our tears. We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea… we are going back from whence we came.”

He wasn’t talking about the U.S. Open at Pebble, but I’d like to think John F. Kennedy would have understood the notion.

We know he knew our game as a member of the Harvard University golf team, we know he loved the ocean (and as President preserved 43,000 acres of beachfront as the Cape Cod National Seashore), and we know he played the game across the Monterey Peninsula – including a near hole-in-one on Cypress Point’s signature 16th hole just days before securing the Democratic nomination for President in 1960.

But as the 787 lifted off from SFO after a week at Pebble Beach for the 119th U.S. Open, his words exposed a bit of the meaning – maybe even a part of the purpose – that tied together so many of the characters gathered on the Pacific coast that week.

For my English golf scoring buddy, it was a lifetime dream to score the U.S. Open at one of the most beautiful golf courses on earth; for my college roommate’s son, it was likely the final time to carry the standard inside the ropes; and for an old boss and lifelong friend, it was her redemption at volunteering at Pebble Beach after a tennis injury sidelined her plans nearly a decade earlier.

With Bob Young on Pebble’s 18th tee… a couple years in the making

Bob and I have scored tournaments together and volunteered in the Middle East, the United Kingdom and in the United States, but Pebble was the first time we both scored the men’s U.S. Open together – and it was exciting to share the training, the meetings, the meals and the stories over the course of the week. There’s a joy in watching someone you like do something you love for the first time – their wonder is reflected and their happiness contagious. My dad, with whom I attended my first U.S. Open nearly 20 years ago and started this journey with, has “retired” from volunteering and though he’s a bit younger than my dad, there’s a special feeling to sharing some of these experiences with Bob – the U.S. Open most of all.

And I’ve known Will since before he had any memories of his own. While I’ve watched him grow and mature – and even tagged along on a college visit – his dad and I have volunteered with him now at three U.S. Opens. Even though I was less than pleased he and I would share no rounds together as scorer and sign carrier, he walked with three other guys I know very well – all of whom he’d been inside the ropes with before at either Chambers Bay or Oakmont. Each remarked after the round how efficient and professional he was, how pleasant he was to spend the hours chatting with, and how much enjoyment they had sharing the time with him during each round. I would never have guessed that hearing them talk about Will would actually be more gratifying, more rewarding than if I’d had those experiences with him myself.

For during the week off the course he and I – sometimes with his dad (my college roommate) and sometimes without – would spend hours talking through life, about college, about hopes and dreams that were no longer distant but right around the corner. Sitting on the expansive balcony of the AirBnb as the Pacific beat upon the shore just below us, we talked about his friends, his excitement and his worries – some vague and some specific. He and his dad would leave Sunday to fly to Tucson so he could register for freshman year classes, scope out the campus and maybe drive by to check out fraternity houses.

And in fact there was someone along in our volunteer ranks – actually volunteering most days with Will’s dad as a 10th hole marshal – who I’d known even longer than Will. I’d met Judy 25 years earlier – my first boss when I arrived to work in Washington, DC, we’d since traveled around the world together with family and friends.  Nine years earlier she’d signed up to volunteer at Pebble Beach with my mom, dad, and other friends before a knee injury dashed those plans.

This year tumbled down upon her far worse than any knee injury when just a few months before the U.S. Open she found her closest relative – her Army pilot nephew just barely in his 30s – dead in his home across the street from hers. The blood clot that ended his life threw hers into a spiral and very nearly derailed her plans to volunteer at Pebble Beach yet again. But she’s got the kind of spirit that won’t be denied – and despite all the personal grief and the physical trauma of preparing his house for sale – Judy was on that 10th tee box for her first shift soaking in every remarkable player that fired tee shots down that beautiful lush fairway hanging just above the beach and Carmel-by-the-Sea.

So while the people, the mighty ocean, some great food, stories and wine might have consumed the week – we were there for some golf as well.

In the first round I was scheduled to score I ventured out with two college dropouts and a guy who’d never even started college… but he’d since won the U.S. Open at Merion and a Gold Medal in the Olympics and the other two combined for 19 majors between them. It was the third time I’d scored Tiger Woods at the U.S. Open and the crush of media, the fans mobbing the rope lines, and the utter thrill of watching one of the greatest golfers of all time never gets old. Watching – and listening to – Jordan Spieth is a treat and experiencing the grace and skill of Justin Rose in a round of golf is always a personal pleasure.

But in what must always be earned and never taken for granted, on Sunday the USGA blessed me with a second late walk in as many years with Brooks Koepka in the final round. And if Judy was daily demonstrating the kind of spirit that wouldn’t be denied each day at Pebble, Brooks had a recent habit of bringing that to the course as well.

While he started four strokes behind Gary Woodland that afternoon, Koepka was gunning for an incredible three-peat of our national championship and my brain was flirting with a potential back-to-back scoring opportunity – especially as holes one through five exploded across the chilly, foggy start to the round.

The afternoon began with two decent drives from Koepka and playing partner Chez Reavie. Coming off the 1st tee, Brooks made at least a 30-yard detour to the right rope to give his dad a hug on Father’s Day before marching his way up to his ball in the first cut. A clean wedge to six feet set up his birdie on one.

A drive right of right, past the bunker and even the cart path, left his second hole tee shot buried in thick rough. Brute strength let him muscle the ball across the fairway, moderately forward, but led to a second shot in more gnarly rough just outside the sand in the ditch 100 yards from the green. With a big swing where almost anything could happen, Koepka did the absolute unbelievable, sticking the ball to within a foot of the hole and tapping in for a par that felt like a birdie after never sniffing the “must hit fairway.” The growing crowds went wild.

A one-foot tap-in for birdie on the third was followed by a five-footer for birdie on the fourth. Four holes into his Sunday round, Koepka had made four putts for no more than 13 or 14 feet total.

The marine layer might have been keeping everyone in quarter-zips, but the Pebble Beach crowds were four to five deep at the ropes and the place was vibrating with the kind of excitement we were beginning to expect from Brooks Koepka at the majors.

When his tee shot on the 204-yard fifth fed off the fringe to about 20 feet, the string of easy one-putts faltered… but his string of one-putts did not. Brooks was now four under through five holes, the crowds had grown to Tiger-like size, and the march up the hill to the 6th hole was utter chaos – running fans, screaming his name, the words “three-peat” repeated so loudly, so often it was just a continuous chant.

So when our little group stood on the 6th tee – the hole that scored the easiest in the 2000 U.S. Open and most thought was one of the best scoring opportunities on the course – the feeling was electric as Brooks hammered his tee shot dead center in the fairway. But after a wide right shot into the bunker on the approach from 200 yards, an out that left a 16-foot putt, and a roll that came up slightly short and right, it felt like something in the air changed. As much as the made bogey at Shinnecock on his 11th hole a year earlier felt like a rush of fresh, winning air, nothing felt quite right after that par on the 6th.

There was good golf – and actually quite fine golf from Chez Reavie – the rest of the afternoon but the magic of the start refused to be conjured again as we wound our way across the course.

After he signed his scorecard, Brooks Koepka was as polite as he always seems to be to the volunteers, handing me a signed ball with a “thank you” and autographing the USGA sign for the girl who carried the standard with us during the round. But you could sense the fire – and some frustration – that burns in him for majors just after the round and it was clear the passion and desire for the three-peat was just as intense in him as it was in the loud and hopeful crowds that cheered him from tee to green all day.

There was an odd mix of executives, pros, volunteers, media and others who shared our good fortune in having a pass to be near the 18th green as the final group played their closing shots. And so it was that U.S. Amateur champion and low amateur at the U.S. Open Viktor Hovland was just to my left; Justin Thomas, Jordan Spieth and Matt Kuchar and his wife just in front; and USGA President Mark Newell and half the Executive Committee to my right as Gary Woodland sunk his final shot – a 30-foot bomb of a putt – to claim victory by three strokes.

Standing there as the roars burst forth in the grandstands above us, I was happy for fellow volunteer Dave Belding who’d made the walking scorer journey with Woodland that day. Just a minor speck in a massive crowd, I stood taking in the sights, sounds and passion of the moment – listening to the crowd noise overpower the Pacific crashing just below us.

Those thoughts, the memories of so many wonderful people who’d been there for the week, and the words of JFK mingled in my brain not much more than 24 hours later as my eyes closed, the seat reclined and the United jet left the ground bearing east toward the Atlantic Ocean.

The very ocean the 35th President and I grew up within easy reach of – the ocean in sight of the first U.S. Open Championship. That ocean, the ocean of my youth was normally calm, with tranquil swells meeting sandy beaches that stretched for miles – whether it was Cape Cod, the Jersey shore or the low country of South Carolina… that was my ocean.

Last year with the smell of the Atlantic on every breath, I was fortunate enough to walk with Brooks Koepka on Sunday as he claimed his second U.S. Open trophy in as many years. But this year, along the rougher, jagged Pacific Coast, the week contained no profound glory, no historical achievement for the men I tracked inside the ropes. But there were – as there always are if you look closely enough – fragments of greatness. Those first five holes on Sunday by the second place finisher, the steady and sure golf Chez Reavie played all afternoon the same day (that would translate to victory just the next week), the handful of magical shots Tiger Woods mustered through his first 16 holes on Friday to the delight of massive, boisterous crowds.

And of course the salt water of the mighty Pacific – as it rolled into Carmel Bay and Stillwater Cove – mixed with the salt of Judy the 10th hole marshal’s tears of pain and in Bob the walking scorers’ tears of joy, it met the salt in Brooks Koepka’s sweat, and it was most definitely in the amped up blood of standard bearer Will as he plotted and planned for college course selection and the adventures ahead.

It may not be a biological fact that golf runs through our blood at the same percentage as the salt in the oceans, but for each of us – in our own unique and special way – the game of golf runs through our veins and serves as a mighty bond between us all.

There’s little doubt many of us will again be present the next time the U.S. Open returns to Pebble Beach.  For in ways both seen and unseen, we are tied to that ocean, that place and that course.

 

Always An Easy Choice

Fourteen years after I started volunteering at golf tournaments and after scoring more than a dozen U.S. Opens, I scored my first PGA tournament at Aronimink Golf Club on a rainy week in September of 2018.

Thanks to the committee chair – a lady I’ve worked with over the years at USGA events who I consider a friend – that Saturday I was granted a rare decision:  the option of scoring the final group of Justin Rose, Keegan Bradley and Xander Schauffele or a group further back in the field comprised of Keith Mitchell, Jason Kokrak and Peter Uihlein.

I’d already scored Keith and Peter Thursday when Pete fired an opening nine 30 and came home with a very respectable 64 for a share of fourth place in the opening round. The other group was compelling to say the least, not only were they the players playing best that week, but with a win Rose could move to #1 in the Official World Rankings (on a course he’d notched a victory on already this decade); Bradley was trying to overcome a six-year winless drought; and, after last year, we all knew Schauffele plays some great golf late in the season.

That said, I read her text twice, stared at my phone for a few seconds and typed back: “If I can get there in time, Pete always.”

It was nine years ago – and less than seven miles away – that I watched Peter Uihlein compete on a golf course for the first time. That weekend in the Walker Cup at Merion Golf Club I walked both of his singles rounds functioning as a moving rope to keep him “safe” from the Main Line crowds. He finished that week 4-0-0 as the USA recorded a decisive victory over Great Britain & Ireland.

Over the ensuing years I’ve had the privilege of seeing him compete in elite amateur tournaments, an NCAA championship, a PGA Tour event here or there, and all four major championships – including the Masters and U.S. Open when he was still a college kid after his U.S. Amateur victory earned him the right to play. I’d scored him in Dubai on the European Tour, walked inside the ropes with him during practice rounds on three continents, and rooted for him through iPhone apps, the internet and on television as he played around the world – often texting with his mom and cousin in the process.

He’d introduced me to Talor Gooch, Cory Whitsett and (through Talor) Wyndham Clark – all guys I’ve followed, cheered on and shared meals and drinks with across the country as they too pursue their golf dreams. Thanks to Pete, I don’t just watch golf, or just volunteer, or just score golf… I feelgolf.  Through him – and through those remarkably talented guys I met in his orbit – the game comes alive in ways it never did before those walks around Merion.

But for two rounds in the Philly suburbs I got to record every stroke Pete took on the biggest tour in the world so those apps and those websites – and even those TV viewers – would know exactly what was happening. He had kept his card and was wrapping up his first season on the PGA Tour, advancing all the way to the third tournament of the FedEx Cup Playoffs.

And here I was, inside the ropes, getting to tag along with the best view of all the action.

He was the first player to arrive on the first tee that Saturday morning and walked up laughing with a big smile on his face and said, “Oh you again?” I told him the choice I got to make and he laughed harder, telling me I was an idiot.

I replied that I was just a fan and that’s how fans are.

In the years he’s spent improving his game, honing his talents and climbing the world rankings, I’ve devoted a few weeks a year to volunteering, scoring some golf and better understanding the flow of a tournament – finding a way to be of value, making some friends along the way and earning the trust of the men and women who produce golf on nearly every level it’s played.

The thing that’s never changed is how Pete and I interact on the walks we take around a golf course. We laugh, we pick on each other, the emotions run a little deep. He’s the kid who first made me feel it, the first who let me understand the heartbeat of the game, brush against the insecurities of it, and become immersed in its joy.

I won’t get the choice to walk inside the ropes or score his rounds very often – but if ever given the chance, I’m always going to take it.

So while that week I learned a slightly new scoring system and used a different device to record the shots than I’d ever used before, what I really confirmed was something I probably knew all along:  given the choice – as rare and infrequent as that may be – I will always pick to be inside the ropes with Pete, or Talor, or Wyndham, or Cory over anyone in the world, regardless of the players or the tournament.

Because that for me will always be something even more than being inside the ropes and being of value to a tournament. Those will be the times I will feel every moment:  every made putt, every crisply struck wedge, every thundering drive, every eagle and birdie, every lost ball and dropped shot. And feelinggolf like that will always be more than watching it, or scoring it, or tracking it for any other players, no matter their fame or their world ranking.

What I can’t wait for is to be assigned to score the final group for one or more of them coming down the stretch as the opportunity to win gets within their grasp.

If I get the option – and get the choice – I’ll always take it.

Scoring Carnoustie

Half an hour after scoring my first ever round in the Open Championship, I found myself reclined in the warm sun halfway up the grandstand to the left of Carnoustie’s 18th green. In the golden glow of a late Scottish afternoon, 52-year-old American Todd Hamilton was finishing his round, rolling in his 75th stroke of the day.

It was a simple and fairly unmemorable moment, one witnessed by only a few dozen spectators in stands that would later hold thousands.

But of all the moments that unfolded in a magical week of mostly spectacular weather in this “famous golf town” along the North Sea, this little scene plays out over and over in my head.

For it was here on the Carnoustie Championship course that I truly experienced my first great links course in 2004. My dad and I played in similarly nice weather while my mom relaxed in a lovely bed & breakfast across the Links Parade 14 years earlier en route to spectating our first Open Championship at Royal Troon. And while Todd Hamilton has only finished better than 32nd in one of his 18 Open appearances, it was that week he finished first and earned the Claret Jug.

So while my dad and I finished our first round here bogey-bogey – or maybe bogey-double bogey for me – the memory of the day became fresh yet again as Hamilton sunk his final putt.

And it brought back other thoughts as I sat with memories swirling around in the amber light.

Seven years earlier, David Uihlein and I had made a challenging loop around Carnoustie after the 2011 Walker Cup in Aberdeen. From first tee through Hogan’s Alley we played in driving rain and sustained 25 mile per hour winds until we emerged soaked and cold a few hours later to battle the world-famous Barry Burn on 17 and 18.

With average skill I bogeyed 17 and fervently needed a par on the last. A half decent drive left me with 180 to the pin, with – as I suspect most know thanks to Jean van de Velde – out-of-bounds left and long, watery burn in front, and troubling rough to the right. My caddie wanted me to putt, or so it sounded like as my Scottish language skills are challenged at best. But as he handed me the Scotty Cameron, I understood with great clarity.

The ball bounded off the putter face and bounced, rolled and careened up the fairway about 150 yards. The ensuing wedge to two feet secured the unlikely par and a story for years to come.

As I sat I pondered the timing. Fourteen years earlier Dad and I had come to play this course and watch as Todd Hamilton won the Open Championship on the other side of Scotland… seven years after that I returned to watch the Walker Cup and play these fantastic links in markedly different weather. And another seven years later here I was having completed scoring Zach Johnson, Adam Scott and Brendan Steele at the same venerable tract at golf’s oldest major tournament.

As the week unfolded, the remarkable moments kept coming.

In a persistent and ever-present rain Friday morning I had the task of scoring Rory McIlroy, Marc Leishman and Thorbjorn Olesen, managing to keep the radio, score sheet and tablet dry despite ending the round bitterly cold, soaking wet and with finger tips that resembled shriveled prunes.

Ducking under spectator umbrellas, seeking a bit of shelter under the rare tree and using a few existing structures along the course proved invaluable – and the thrill of Rory turning toward the clubhouse with three birdies in the first five holes of the second nine – along with Olesen’s eagle-birdie on 14/15– made the journey plenty exciting.

Walking toward the recording office from the course, Rory thanked me for being out there with them. I told him that despite being cold and wet the memory of walking up the 18th into the Coliseum-like grandstands as people cheered his name might well be a lifetime golf highlight of mine… I was rewarded with a huge McIlroy smile and a pat on the shoulder.

With no assignment Saturday, I took time to dry out, watch Sky Sports coverage of the championship, and appreciate the Scottish distilling skill now turned to gin.

Sunday dawned late and when I checked into the scoring office I learned I would be scoring the sixth group from the end with Zach Johnson and Tommy Fleetwood. What a thrill for a guy who flew across the Atlantic with no expectations for such outstanding groups to score.

By then I will admit for the first time in recent memory, my feet hurt a little bit, my calf muscles could have used a gentle massage and stretching my hamstrings seemed even wiser than usual. But there I am not long after on the first tee, inside the ropes under soaring grandstands as the English yell “Tommy, Tommy, Tommy” and “Go Tommy Lad” already a few pints into their afternoon. I’m walking along in beautiful weather with a bit of a wind up, recording each stroke and soaking in the energy and wonder of Carnoustie’s legendary links as they host the Open.

Scoring late in the day I bear witness to Tiger Wood’s name creeping up the yellow leaderboards as others stumble. Focused and scoring, I still feel the rush of excitement as his name stands alone at the top – until his own challenges early on in his incoming 9 sink his chances at victory. With Rory in the group just behind, I’m also watching countless McIlroy shots and can feel, more than hear, the roar of his Sunday eagle on 14.

In the end, I watched the final holes in the broadcast compound as Francesco Molinari earned himself the Claret Jug with a flawless final 36 bogey-free holes while all the others around him succumbed to the fierce old course’s many defenses.

I’ve now worked just a singular U.S. Amateur championship as well as this single Open Championship – both won by the Molinari brothers:  Edoardo in 2005 at Merion and Francesco now at Carnoustie.

In fact, I’ve scored more than 50 tournament rounds – across four continents now – and much of that was exactly the same as it was at Carnoustie. Many of the people inside the ropes were people I knew, I had a radio attached to my right ear, a golf pencil in my right hand, the SMT scoring system strapped to a clipboard, and the same coded scoring sheet of paper I’ve used for a dozen years. I’m walking with a standard bearer – two amazing ones from St. Andrews and a funny lad from Manchester – as well as a rules official… and yet it also feels very different.

Maybe it was the unique and iconic yellow scoreboards, the feel and look of the course itself so far removed from the over-manicured, the rough beauty of the landscape and the salt air, and of course the fourth fellow walking along with our normal trio to rake the bunkers as we make our way from the first tee to the eighteenth green.

Or maybe it was just Carnoustie and Scotland that made it all feel different.

Maybe it was the memories that came alive from 14 years ago and the added memories of 7 years ago… the walk with my dad as these links unfolded for us that very first time, the memories of Todd Hamilton at Royal Troon among the sand dunes and fescue, the wind and rain and ridiculous par with David on the 18th after the Walker Cup.

By 10 pm as the sun grudgingly set into a purple Scottish sky and I dug into my last Arbroath smokie with a local Dundee gin and tonic at my side, the memories gave way to a genuine joy – and the hope that the Royal & Ancient might once again find room for this American walking scorer to lend a hand inside their ropes.

A Gathering of the Golf Guys Brotherhood

For the second time in three years I walked up the 18th fairway of the U.S. Open with the champion. While the final approach for one was a precision iron leading to a birdie, this one was an errant shot bouncing off the grandstand followed by a brilliant chip to secure a bogey – and victory on the 72nd hole.

The bogey save for the win seemed perfectly in tune to the story as I entered the final putt on the scoring device. For at Shinnecock on Sunday in 2018, Brooks Koepka’s saves were what I’ll never forget from my time inside the ropes.

But the truth is, the time inside the ropes was just a piece of the bigger story and the bigger joys experienced with friends from around the world.

Literally, four continents of volunteers – people I’d met on golf courses from Dubai to Rio de Janeiro and across the United States – were gathered in the Hamptons for one unique week… a gathering of the brotherhood of golf guys coming together to lend a hand in staging America’s national championship. As walking scorers, laser operators, marshals and more, it was to be a reunion of people who’ve crossed my path – and a time for strangers to become friends through the shared experience.

Bob Young – who grew up in Southampton, England – led the charge for this gathering more than two years ago, pushing a small group of us to gather in Southampton, New York for the 118th U.S. Open. We’d met in Dubai scoring the final event on the European Tour five years earlier and now shared an AirBnb each November right on the marina a couple blocks from the Persian Gulf.

Nick Ford, a retired publishing executive and avid golf volunteer with a son skilled enough to make money at the game, also shares that Dubai flat each year and joined us from London as a member of the Walking Scoring committee at Shinnecock. Dave Wintrip, the final member of our Dubai gang, joined us from Australia for his second USGA volunteer experience having previously journeyed over for the U.S. Women’s Open the summer before.

But they were far from the only folks sacrificing time and money to volunteer on one of America’s greatest golf courses… Tomas Botelho, who had shown us around Rio and Sao Paulo and wandered the Olympic fairways with us in Brazil, had flown up to volunteer as well. My Rio condo-mate and longtime walking scorer buddy Joe Calaban and his wife – also volunteering – were gracious enough to host both Tomas and I in their Hamptons home.

And volunteers Joe and I had met at the Olympics were coming in from Italy, New Jersey and South Carolina to volunteer as well… not to mention the dozen or more gentlemen with whom we’ve scored U.S. Opens for nearly a decade.

But like all U.S. Open weeks of late, there was joy to be found inside the ropes as well. To reunite with Pete Uihlein, his caddie and his swing coach for a few holes during a practice round always makes any week better and more special, to share in the joy and preparation of Sulman Raza, his family, his friends and colleagues from Jones Sports Company in his professional debut and first U.S. Open was inspiring, and to heckle (and get heckled by) – and try to settle a lost golf bet with – Trey Mullinax as he prepped for a week at Shinnecock was unexpectedly full of good fun and humor.

During the Sunday round Rich Beem and I had each other laughing, swapping stories just off the 12th green about New Mexico and his folk-hero status to the British golf fans who follow his every drink and meal as he commentates his way around global golf for SkySports… and I shared a few moments with life-legend Rick Reilly wandering up the right rough on the 18th as Dustin Johnson and Brooks Koepka eyed up their approach shots.

But the greatest joys this one week in June came outside the ropes.

From world-class restaurants and brew pubs in Southampton proper, to stunning little joints in Westhampton, to an evening spent at the legendary American Hotel in Sag Harbor, to the freshest local seafood cooked and grilled in a rental house under the stars, a different mix of folks gathered each night to share their experiences of the day, tell stories from tournaments past, and discuss with joyous expectation golf courses and tournaments they looked forward to exploring in the future.

Fran, Russell, Tomas and I (a segment of our Olympic crew in Westhampton) even spent time with a spot-on Trump impersonator late one night at a bar… where “Trump” told Tomas he’d almost fixed the Korean peninsula and would get around to fixing Brazil’s broken economy before he was done. The guy was nearly as hilarious as Fran… but Fran stories truly take humor to another level – and have since we weren’t kidnapped by Tomas and his friends in a back alley late at night after way too many beers watching rugby 7’s in Rio.

There were even 18 holes of spectating with Tina Uihlein watching Pete compete on Saturday with one of her friends and the hilarious Chubby Chandler telling stories both appropriate and inappropriate. Watching Pete, especially with Tina, makes golf for me more personal, more compelling, more nerve-wracking and more special – it makes me feel the game in a way I’ve only been lucky enough to feel since 2009 when I met this family who welcomed me as a fan of their kid.

It’s not as if time stopped, but it was as if the rest of the non-golfing world faded back to a respectable distance for seven wonderful days.

And in the waning moments of the week, just a few hours before we’d say so long to Bob, Nick and Dave – but not quite “goodbye” since the four of us would be together for the Open Championship at Carnoustie in just a few short weeks – there were those final holes inside the ropes with DJ and Brooks.

The day turned – for fans, for the field, for Brooks, and certainly for those of us fortunate enough to be inside the ropes with him – on the short, uphill par three 11th hole.

Dustin had hit his tee shot about 150 yards to the middle of the green while Brooks had launched his over the back just on the edge of the tall fescue. With a one-stroke lead over Tommy Fleetwood already in the clubhouse, Brooks and his caddie discussed a calculated risk – rather than leaving his next shot short, they talked about going long into the middle bunker if his ball didn’t come to rest on the green.

I was close enough to Curtis Strange – the last man to win back-to-back U.S. Opens in the late 1980s – to hear him say into his Fox Sports microphone something like, “I can tell you, there’s a big difference having a one-stroke lead in the U.S. Open vs. being tied coming down these final holes.”

As Brook’s shot rolled and rolled across the green, two completely full grandstands groaned in unison as the ball continued into the heart of the sand on the other side of the putting surface.

Wasting little time however, the 2017 champion knocked his third shot five or six feet below the hole and he would shortly thereafter roll that in for a remarkable bogey… while Dustin almost equally remarkably three-putted from the middle of the green.

In that moment, right there left of the 11th green, I felt as if Brooks touched the trophy for the first time that day. If it wasn’t yet within his grasp, it was again within his reach. I remember commenting to a USGA guy standing to my left that we may well have just witnessed the bogey that won the U.S. Open.

In fact there was truth in that. The first back-to-back U.S. Open champion in his lifetime, it seemed that Koepka’s fortitude, his putting and the strength he brought with his irons to launch his Titleist free of the ball-eating fescue made all the difference that final round.

As the crowds swelled along the 12th green and the 13th tee, the cheers for the reigning champ grew… the energy was visible, it was loud, and it was passionate. It followed our group across the sandy soil, along the final holes, and up the 18th.

Dotted among the tens of thousands of fans were individuals I’d met along this journey, buddies from around the world and close to home, people with a love for the game and a passion for helping make tournaments just a little bit better with their service.

As joyful as it was to record the champion’s journey for yet another time at the U.S. Open, it was these fellow fans, these guys who give time and talent to volunteer, that made this week one of the most special tournaments yet.

LA. Three Years Later.

It hit me somewhere along the right side of the 11th fairway on a very specific Saturday afternoon at Riviera Country Club.

We were walking the same ground, tucked below the mansions of the Pacific Palisades, on a perfect southern California day – just as we had exactly three years ago to the day.

Much like that previous week, this week we’d already walked side by side on a golf course, taken advantage of the area’s access to great seafood for a long sushi meal, and caught up on each other’s lives over a few quality cocktails and glasses of wine.

But a lot had changed in those three years.

The obvious difference from the first Saturday to this Saturday was the twist of green and white rope that separated us. The more profound difference was that one of us had made the cut at the Genesis Open on the PGA Tour a day earlier and had just finished his first hole playing alongside the #1 ranked golfer in the world.

There was adrenaline pumping through me, I could feel it; there was excitement and joy, anticipation of another magical moment in a long series of moments witnessing the unfolding of remarkable dreams.

Since the first moments spending time with Talor Gooch and his dad years earlier, I had decided to believe, to share in the goals, and to pitch in where I could as those dreams unfolded.

One of those opportunities happened three years earlier when he called to invite me (maybe pressure me?) into changing my flight back to the East Coast and instead drive from Palm Springs to Los Angeles to carry his stand bag at some eGolf Tour event north of the city.

Naturally, I took him up on the offer.

I’d like to say I walked inside the ropes with him there carrying his bag and occasionally confirming the read on a putt or the direction of the wind, but there wasn’t a rope to be found at Rustic Canyon. There were no fans for the players on the mini tours, guys with no status who fought to find opportunities to play and hone their game. The fact is, Talor played some great golf that day – far better than the two guys we were paired with – but unbeknownst to us there was a cut that we missed by a single stroke. Like much of the first few years after turning pro, it was another week of expenses not offset by earnings.

Stuck with flights and a hotel room, we had some tickets left at Will Call down the road at the PGA tournament underway in Los Angeles. For the first and only time in my life, Talor and I entered the gates of a tournament together as spectators. The course was great, it was cool to see some of his friends playing, but being outside the ropes was no place for him.

Over the next three years, through a meandering path across Canada, the Caribbean, South and Central America and dozens of U.S. states, Talor had progressively earned cards – and the ensuing opportunity to compete in the game he was born to play – on the Canadian Tour, the Web.com Tour and finally last fall golf’s big leagues: the PGA Tour. In the process, he’d done a lot of growing up and a lot of self-improvement, he’d changed up his workout routine, his eating habits, and of course he replaced guys like me with a professional caddie to guide him not just around the course, but through the process as well.

When Talor earned that PGA Tour card, I shed a few tears of joy. And I circled one single event on the calendar – Riviera Country Club. To watch him play – no matter the result of the actual swings – a place we’d walked in some of the darker days just three years earlier, was something I refused to miss.

It never occurred to me then who he might play alongside or compete against head-to-head – it wasn’t about any of them. It was just about the dream, about the goals, about the opportunity life rarely grants us to return to a place a different man, a better competitor, a more fully developed soul.

Three years ago we ate sushi at a perfectly acceptable place with a buddy of mine; this week we spent a few hours making our way through Nobu’s tasting menu.

Three years ago we played with an Aussie who drove himself and his wife in a cart as he played, this week Talor went head-to-head with world #1 Dustin Johnson Saturday and world #3 Jordan Spieth on Sunday.

And instead of walking side by side carrying his bag, I walked the practice rounds with a camera in hand listening in on the strategy and the planning – and we both teed it up on the North Course at Los Angeles Country Club (the host of the 2023 US Open) with an amazing pair of members and two outstanding caddies.

DJ shot his best round of the week Saturday; Jordan fired his best round of the week Sunday. Thousands of people watched those two rounds of golf and the cheer for Talor’s eagle on the 1st was just as loud as the one for DJ. The “Gooches” yelled out by strangers grew as the week progressed. As the final putts fell on 18 Sunday and we climbed the hill back to Riviera’s clubhouse, there was no doubt Talor belonged inside the ropes with the giants of today’s game.

He played his competitive golf. We ate our sushi. We explored a golf course together side by side.

But what a difference three years made.

Race to Dubai and the Pro Uihlein

Thanks in large part to my dad, I’ve always liked the game of golf despite its early indifference to me and my lackluster swing. Once we started volunteering for the U.S. Open and other USGA events together I grew to enjoy scoring tournaments – watching far better swings and bearing witness to those who played the game in the elite amateur and professional ranks.

But it was one remarkable weekend in September of 2009 that changed my relationship to the game and sharpened my passion for the men and women who play it at the highest levels. Specifically it was being randomly assigned to keep watch over Peter Uihlein, a 20-year-old Oklahoma State golfer I’d never heard of, as he played his singles matches Saturday and Sunday of the Walker Cup at Merion Golf Club.

He was nervous and confident in about equal measure, wore his heart on his sleeve, joked and chatted without reservation, and hit some of the greatest pressure golf shots I’ve ever seen – more than eight years later I still remember a dazzling one-iron from 285 yards uphill on the 2nd, a shocking chip-in on 16 after missing the green across the quarry (and the ensuing low five he loudly administered to my left hand) and the emotion of a magical putt on the 17th to secure an American victory.

While I’ve scored dozens of tournaments since that weekend in Philadelphia I’ve never crossed paths with Pete again as a volunteer. He’s played most of his golf on the European Tour since turning professional in 2012 and though I’ve volunteered at two U.S. Opens and one year of the final Race to Dubai tournament where he was playing my assigned times never overlapped with his rounds. So while I’ve watched him play as a fan and walked inside the ropes during a practice round or two it wasn’t until November of 2017 that I’d get the opportunity to volunteer alongside the kid as a pro.

It was my fourth year scoring the DP World Championship, the final event on the European Tour’s Race to Dubai, and potentially my last – the world is large and there are golf tournaments everywhere; as much as I enjoy this event and location, I was getting the itch to devote time and money to explore new ones. I informed my three scoring buddies Monday while we perused our assigned tee times for the week to not count on me for 2018. The European Tour scoring folks have been very good to the four of us, assigning us times close together so we could share Ubers and taxis – this year our scoring times got better each day until Sunday when one of us would very likely score the tournament champion. That is always exciting stuff.

To a man, they each volunteered to swap rounds with me if they had the opportunity to score Pete but none of us did in the first round. However, with a reshuffle each day anything could happen – but Pete would have to play some pretty good golf as the weekend progressed. As the final shots fell Thursday, Pete recorded a one-under round and it became apparent he’d fallen right into my Friday round, Group 12.

On a bright sunny Dubai morning, he shook my hand on the first tee and with a wry smile said, “Hi, my name is Pete.” I responded that mine was Mike and pointed to my nametag – “and it’s right there if you forget” I said with a smile.

Amazingly, his four-under round Friday landed him into my Group 23 the next day and his bogey-free seven-under round Saturday put him three back of the lead in the fourth group from the end – my assigned Group 27.

Anyone with internet access can go back and look at exactly how Pete played those three rounds in Dubai – and could probably piece together the state of his health after a WD the week before while tied 10th after the first round in South Africa. Suffice to say despite battling his stomach, his golf in Dubai was strong, his iron play was often masterful, and his swing looked as good as I’d ever seen it – more simple, compact and repeatable – but the joy was simply being there inside the ropes, hearing the laughter, listening to the chatter, seeing the smile, and witnessing the kindness in how he treated competitors, volunteers, family and fans.

The occasional call for a referee was done by name: “Hey Mike, can you call for a Rules official?” he’d yell over to me. The rare commentary from me to player included a name as well – even when I tried to hold it back, a chip-in or long birdie putt might find me blurting out “Attaboy Pete” or “Yes! Great shot Pete.” Sometimes I just silently pumped my fist or grabbed eye contact with his mom as she darted to the next hole.

I could score with integrity and impartiality, but I was rooting for Pete Uihlein as I’ve done weekend after weekend for years – as a college golfer, over summers of amateur golf, and as he’s crisscrossed oceans and continents pursing his professional dreams.

For three straight days instead of refreshing the app at home, I was blessed to get a bit of a sunburn, stand just off every tee, walk a few steps behind him down every hole and linger by the greens for three consecutive rounds – rounds that had their share of magical moments and missed opportunities for sure, but rounds that resulted in a mere three bogeys and 17 birdies.

As it was years ago, Pete’s passion bubbled just below the surface, as did his kindness and his own unique charm. Just as it had been at Merion, there was the occasional wink or head nod as he silently made his way from green to tee after an extraordinary shot or memorable hole – par save or birdie alike. The kid knows I’m a fan.

Victory was not to be, but another top 10 was a strong finish to the year – a year that saw him secure his PGA Tour card, retain his European Tour privileges and move into the top 60 players in the world. Jon Rahm won the tournament and Tommy Fleetwood captured the yearlong Race to Dubai trophy… the same Tommy Fleetwood who fell to Pete 2 and 1 many Saturdays ago back at Merion’s 17th hole in the 2009 Walker Cup as I walked along and looked after Pete as the USGA had assigned.

Since that weekend at Merion, Pete and Tommy have begun to make their mark on the game and I’ve gotten to know and care about two or three additional golfers I root for with something akin to the same sense of passion, fear and excitement that parents exhibit watching their children compete.

But Pete was the first – and is largely responsible for me knowing the other golfers as well as I do.

Back in 2009 he let me feel the game and get wrapped up in the character of the players as much as the results. Scoring golf is always exciting and always a privilege, but scoring someone your heart roots for week in and week out and whose dreams you get to share is a step beyond what I imagined it might be. It was another handful of days I can never forget thanks to an extremely talented and unique character I’ve grown to love.

So while my dad and I still tee it up and play the game we both enjoy, we share an equal passion for the men and women who play the professional game – and communicate every week of the year about the golfers we follow who have found a place in our hearts.

There is no doubt the profound joy and wonder we’ve both found as volunteers is deeply rooted in a single experience – those 34 holes I was blessed to walk with a quirky, talented young Pete Uihlein. From the other side of the world on a golf course called Earth, the point was reinforced and the joy expanded eight years later.

I flew out of Dubai not sure I’d see the city again. But I flew out with a strong suspicion that the best is yet to come in the game we share – for dad, for me and especially for Pete.

LACC Won the Walker Cup

In the two-plus hours it takes to travel from Lionel Ritchie’s old house to the Playboy Mansion, you can learn a lot about a place. And you can learn a lot about a group of people. After that walk at the 2017 Walker Cup on Los Angeles County Club’s North course the biggest thing I learned is how open and excited the membership is to be having us (and some extraordinarily elite golfers) all over for the weekend at one of America’s best and most exclusive tracts.

Having scored golf tournaments all over the world, I know there are Walker Cups where it’s no more likely to run into a member on the course during play than it is an Emirati in Dubai at the final event on the European Tour. But throughout the weekend in LA it was the members of LACC not just showing up, but doing some heavy lifting – serving as standard bearers, hustling from greens to the middle of fairways to marshal holes (never seeing a putt drop), working multiple rounds each day, and thanking any volunteer who wasn’t a member for helping make their home course shine.

It was completely unexpected… akin to the lack of mosquitoes on the Olympic golf course in Rio unexpected. The lead up to the tournament dwelled on the lack of openness and public signage at the great old course hidden off Wilshire up the bending drive as much as it did on the Gil Hanse re-design and the quality of the teams assembled from both sides of the Atlantic.

The course was everything I expected and more. Paintings should be made – and apparently are every few years – of the approach to the 1st hole with the Beverly Hilton and an iconic looking steeple in the background, the approach on the 3rd with its trio of palm trees rising above the left side of the green, the beautiful 7th from the back tee, the fantastic 8th hole from multiple locations as it twists from tee to green, the Hollywood hills framing the approach to 14, and the wonderfully curving fairway as viewed from the 17th tee. And of course the jaw dropping afternoon views of downtown Los Angeles from the 11th tee box remind you both of where you are and how far away from it all you’ve been.

Much has been said and written about the golf course, but more could and should have been – and likely will – when the USGA returns with the U.S. Open in six years. The George Thomas design and relatively recent renovation was a treat to walk. I particularly loved the space, sometimes as much as 20-30 yards, between “greenside” bunkers and greens – something that wasn’t usually apparent from the approach shot but added a whole new dimension to a handful of holes. The putting surfaces were firm and fast, a few greens actually reminding me of Merion’s that are subtle but tricky and more revealing as you see balls roll on them over multiple rounds.

For me personally, it was a thrill to be on the grounds as Norman Xiong emerged on the international stage as maybe the most dominate teenager in American golf. In January we walked a practice round during his collegiate debut in Arizona and again watched him murder golf balls at Stanford in March. Friendly, good-natured and with a huge grin on his face, the kid is a fearless golfer with a violently in control swing that is awesome to behold.

In what turned out to be an America rout, I achieved the nearly unthinkable: scoring two matches and two full points for the GB&I side. Saturday morning saw towering drives – one a 390-yard bomb on the 14th – from Cameron Champ and memorable lag putting (with a few key makes) from Scottie Scheffler, but also too many loose shots off the tee and on approaches plus putts that often raced by the hole leaving more than knee-knockers coming back. The GB&I pair of Scott Gregory (last year’s British Amateur Champion) and Jack Singh Brar made a lot of great decisions and played with a pace unheard of in the slow moving American college game.

On Sunday, we were witness to good but not great golf between Doc Redman, the reigning U.S. Amateur champion who’d shown himself to be a fantastic match play champion on another George Thomas design just down the road at Riviera last month, and Stanford alum and Welshman David Boote who was turning pro the next day. Both players entered the round without so much as half a point and the lack of conceded putts proved they were both gunning for a victory. But with only five birdies between them – and even a Boote victory with bogey on the par 3 seventh – the golf was probably not as crisp as either hoped. We were the last of only three singles matches to reach the 18th and watched the lights begin to glow on the clubhouse as thousands of spectators watched Doc’s last approach shot bound over the green and his well struck chip nonetheless race beyond the hole coming fast off the downslope.

The round was marked more by the fun, humor and good-natured exchanges between the standard bearer, rules official and me. I’d worked with the official before and share mutual friends from the San Francisco Bay area where he lives. And the standard bearer endured photos from his wife on the 3rd tee, cheers and heckles from his fellow members throughout the round, and tolerated my golf travel stories while adding insights on each hole and spirited commentary on golf, life and the karma that does in fact often wind through our shared journey.

The Walker Cup, and golf in general, is full of class acts – none more so than my pair of LACC standard bearers, but also that weekend from Scottie seeking out the scorer and standard bearer on the first tee to shake our hands and thank us, to Rules officials introducing us to players and sharing their stories from inside the ropes, to (again) LACC members telling tales from decades of membership and experiences on both the North and South courses and asking questions about U.S. Opens past and looking forward to their turn as hosts in 2023.

The class is always evident in Maverick McNealy’s grace, his wide smile and goofy joy as he talks about embracing the fun of professional golf and his excitement for the opportunities ahead on the PGA Tour in October and beyond. The class was certainly highlighted and on public display in the relationships forged between LACC caddies and their players – caddies I had the good fortune to meet on Friday with a buddy of mine who’s a U.S. Naval Academy graduate, officer in the Naval Reserve, aspiring screen writer and occasional LACC caddie himself. And the class was there in the exchanges you have with people you’ve met along the way, like the head pro at Hazeltine National with stories of the Ryder Cup and his love for this event, fellow volunteers from USGA events across the country cropping up here together in LA, or TV production folks you forged a bond with at the Olympics (who are this one weekend forced to wear long pants because well, LACC is pants-only you have to know).

I never did journey down behind the 14th tee to see the monkeys and peacocks and other assorted members of the Playboy Mansion zoo, but after three days of wandering and scoring across the 300 acres of LACC the highlights were never going to be so exotic. The highlights were – as they usually are after such an event – the people and the stories, the shared experience of watching greatness and near greatness, and the heart and the passion and the joy of each moment.

Winning the Pro-Am

Don’t get me wrong; our 12-under wasn’t quite the best score, but there’s no doubt we won the Club Colombian Pro-Am in Bogota.

We’d been warned to expect a brief stop for lunch at the turn – we were NOT warned the day could turn into a 14-hour experience if we went all in on it.

We went all in.

Joined on the tee by a couple members of the host club – an investment banker and the CEO of a large advertising agency – along with a cosmetic surgeon with a charity focused on helping abused, burned and acid-attacked women, Talor and I had no idea what our day would entail.

Three holes in, Christian of the public relations world, pulled me aside with a statement that was partly a question: “You are NOT a caddie, Mike.”

“Wow it’s that obvious, huh? That’s not good. I should probably tend the flag more, right?” was my honest response.

He just laughed and laughed. A hole later he asked what I really did… and from there the conversation flowed among our entire group with noticeably greater ease than the air at Bogota’s 8,600 feet.

With a 30 minute first lunch break we only managed 16 holes, but were invited (ordered?) to meet our hosts on the patio – where it turns out players and caddies were not permitted. There we embarked upon a nearly three hour lunch of freshly made chicharrones, various Colombian tapas, lovely fried bits we didn’t ask too much about, varied different fruit juices, a massive platter each of “baby beef” just off the open flames from the outside grill, and at least three bottles of perfect afternoon white wine.

With just a bit of time for a much needed – and traditional – siesta in the hotel it was off to the sponsor / pro-am party at a raging three-story club downtown.

While there was only Club Colombia beer (the title sponsor of the tournament) and a sponsor’s whiskey available for consumption, somehow Christian met us just inside the door with a bottle of French champagne (which never stopped flowing) and glasses.

A shockingly small number of pros made an appearance, but Christian took Talor around to every floor, posing him for photos with all the newspapers, magazines and television cameras present, and touting him as the next big thing on the PGA Tour, we think – our Spanish is unreliable.

It was yet another day in Bogota the lunch coupons I received at caddie check-in – where they told me to follow a dirt path behind the course’s gas tank to eat each day and to “be sure you don’t lose the ticket or you can’t eat” – would go unused.

Mosquito Free. Scoring Olympic Gold.

While it may not exactly be my story to share, I’m not sure anything better sums up my experience at Olympic golf than Justin Rose’s Facetime call to his kids right after he signed his scorecard.

In a very short call, his son compared the Gold Medal to a medal he’d recently won at a soccer tournament and closed the call by warning his father not to trip on the medals podium. It was one of many human moments that transcended the golf played on Gil Hanse’s unique and exciting design in Rio de Janeiro.

There were so many human moments during the week it’s hard to capture them all even now.

Backed up on the 12th tee on Friday, Bubba Watson was taking selfies with fans along the ropes and handing out golf balls and pins to kids throughout the week; Martin Kaymer’s caddie was razzing Danny Willett and calling for the crowd to clap and whoop it up for “OUR MASTER’S CHAMPION” while Willett looked like he was going to swallow his tongue. After the round when I asked Justin Rose to sign the Olympic score sheet, Henrik Stenson asked if I wanted his autograph too because he was the Silver Medalist (prior to this I’d never had the second place finisher do much more than leave the scoring trailer). And Bubba, Rickie Fowler and all three American women showed up to cheer on Matt Kuchar for finishing third – I mean, winning the Bronze.

This was a different week.

And a special one.

I had the opportunity to score some great rounds of golf, watch some of the best players of our time, and witness history being made. By the end of the first two days I’d scored the first Olympic hole-in-one thanks to Rose (who did it with a 7-iron from 187 yards on the 4th hole); walked 18 with Fowler now at the Walker Cup, the US Open and the Olympics; got to score Willett and Kuchar and collected signed golf balls as a thank you from them all; and befriended a retired Rio native serving along side me as a scorer who shared his life in stories over dinner at a fantastic Brazilian steakhouse.

That was even before the final round assignments came out and we learned I would be scoring my first ever last group in a Sunday final round: Justin Rose, Henrik Stenson and Marcus Fraser. As it turned out, the first Olympic gold medal match in 112 years.

There were 16 birdies on Sunday between them – including two on the opening hole and two on the closing hole (Rose birdied both en route to a 67) – and the weather was perfect. A slight breeze on the first tee picked up as we went along to make things more challenging on the backside, but the sun was out and they were playing before a sold-out gallery. By the time we made the turn, the 18th grandstand was already full and waiting for us. We saw a caiman on the 10th hole, a capybara wandering the fence on the back nine and a half dozen full-sized Union Jacks blowing in the wind on every hole.

Our funny joking around with Rose and his caddie on a practice round day earlier in the week that two of us were from Philadelphia and had both scored at Merion – the site of his U.S. Open victory – were something both he and his caddie would mention as we made our walk from the first tee, to the 18th green, to the medals podium that Sunday.

So even now, long after scoring that match (and all four rounds of the women’s golf tournament), the voice of Rose’s 7-year-old son through the phone remains indelible. There was joy and excitement that you’d expect, but something more… you could see it in the scoring trailer on Rose’s face (who I believe wiped tears from his eyes as he sat down to sign his card). You could see it as his wife and mother stood there beaming with pride and emotion… and how they got choked up even talking to each other. And you could certainly hear it in the voices of his children as he put Great Britain’s team tracksuit on over his golf shirt before going out to claim his medal.

Rose would later call it a magical week. What an honor it was to feel a bit of that magic in that moment.

At the time Rose was asking everyone he saw if Andy Murray had won Gold that afternoon… because of course he was part of a team that week, a team much bigger than Mark Steinberg his agent, Mark Fulcher his caddie and whatever else Team Rose looks like day in and day out. (Plus indeed, Great Britain had claimed the Country Club Golds that day after all.)

It seemed like of all of us, Rose had felt what the Olympics meant all along. And watching his face as they played “God Save the Queen,” you got a sense golf in the Olympics might be here to stay.

So while it could have been fun to score Rory McIlroy instead of the long hitting youngster Seamus Powers (who I scored with Nicolas Colsaerts and Emiliano Grillo – with massive crowds from Argentina following us all day), I’m not sure it would have changed the Rose-Stenson-Kuchar medal stand. And maybe scoring Jordan Spieth instead of Matt Kuchar on Friday (who I scored with Danny Willett and Haotong Li of China) would have been different; it couldn’t have been more special than it already was.

During the week I took in women’s basketball with a friend from New Jersey and a lovely woman and her mother we’d met from Paris, we spent a night watching rugby sevens with some rowdy Texans and new friends from Sao Paulo, we watched diving with a few college girls from Arizona, and spent a night watching Gold Medal round wrestling. Sometimes we watched the Olympians and sometimes we watched the fans… fans from Iran, Spain, Mexico, Great Britain, Cuba, the US and everywhere else are much more the same than they are different. They all somehow got to Rio, they brought their noisemakers and their whole hearts and they cheered and yelled and made every venue we got to vibrate with passion.

To say I owe a huge debt of gratitude to all the men and women who fought to get golf into the Olympics is an understatement. To think I got to play a little part in such a major thing; to think I might have missed the Olympics altogether without golf’s inclusion… But because these two weeks were as much about human moments as the sports themselves, I was lucky to have the opportunity to personally thank Peter Dawson, Gary Player, Ty Votaw, Ian Baker Finch, Paul McGinley, Gil Hanse and many others who walked the fairways with us every day.

This was a different golf trip.

And a special one.